Food Glorious Food

Thanks to everyone for the wonderful birthday emails, faxes and calls. I felt very loved so far from home. An extra big thanks to Paaaaa and Annie for rescuing my "instant pasta in the middle of nowhere" birthday (which was actually pretty fun) and putting us up at the Panamericano in Bariloche for a postponed luxury version :-) Aaah - but how to get to Bariloche? Is it coche cama? Aerolineas Argentina? No, its the Argentinian Airforce to the rescue. Don´t worry about the preflight safety spiel - there are no oxygen masks, rubber slides or parachutes, in case of emergency crash landing put your head between your legs and kiss your a*s* good-bye! A hop to Rio Gallegos, a splutter to Comodorro Rivadavia and an overnight semi-cama eventually got us there. Our appreciation of our 5 star accommodation was off the richter scale by then. Not a bad view either...









Bariloche - the chocolate and gnome (?) capital of Argentina has not disappointed. With its revolving wooden dolls, free tasters everytime you step foot inside the door, lemon mousse and dulche leche delights, Marmuschka won best choclatier hands down. We felt obliged to try as many competitors as possible though, with Fenoglio getting the blue ribbon for gnome atmosphere and hot chocolate even Jas wouldn´t complain about (still no marshmallows though...)

Sadly on our 3rd day it was time to farewell bathtubs, rooftop gyms, pool, sauna, room service breaky (thanks Mil & Dawny) and return to La Vida de Mochilistas (backpackers). This time not such a heavy fall, landed in a penthouse converted to Hostel 1004 with equally good views of the lake and town. Feeling slightly guilty and at least 5 kgs heavier between us after all the choc consumption, we completed Grockle Mission number 1, Curcuito Chico. A cycle of anything between 60km and 20km, depending on who you asked. Completed on rented moutain bikes, one without suspension and the other with added extras...More stunning views, cake and coffee (we WERE exercising!) at remote locations and a platter of smoked delicacies in a log cabin on steroids in the hippy Colonia Suiza. Ventured off the circuit in search of a beach. The beach was a 4WD´s heaven with inlets to cross and gravel to churn up. Unfortunately a hatchback got confused and thought it was a 4WD until it found itself bogged in a soft river bed. We would have towed them out with our mountain bikes but found we were missing the necessary winch and muscle power. Even taking our shoes off and wading in the icy water was hard enough.
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After more chocolate and lazy days we relocated out of town up to the best hostel we´ve stumbled across yet. La Morada - check out the photos, no need to say anything else. Followed standard procedure by gaping at the views the first night, reading all the english magazines left by other travellers, sleeping in late, lounging, reading, repairing travel clothes and then realising there is only so much nothing you can do and scrambling up the dirt track to the top of Cerro Otto for an even higher view. Entertained other tourists riding the cable car who we could see forgetting about the amazing scenery and peering down to point and wave at the crazy grockles scrambling up the hill. Revolving restaurant up the top was a novelty until our third rotation when we both started feeling queasy. Then one more day to do as little as possible before the hurly burly of Buenos Aires.
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Kaz and Stu

Bargain of the week: La Morada - find at $40 a night, feel the serenity
Meal of the week: chocolate, chocolate, coffee with chocolate, chocolate ice-cream
Gaff of the week: slipping and sliding when we should have taken the cable car.