Back to Argentina.

Ouch, another 6am start; who said travelling was all hammocks and beers? We took a bus across the border into Argentina, the worst bus in town according to Alejandro, to El Calafate and Glacier Perito Moreno.

5 hours later our first tourist stop was the star of the Parque National Glaciares, Perito Moreno. This huge ice field is 60m high with huge chunks regularly dropping off into the milky blue water below.

40 pictures later (ok so we'll spare you them all!) we returned to El Calafate and tourist central for the night to regain our strength for another bumpy bus ride to Parque National Fitzroy.

We joined the legendary (or infamous) Route 40, Argentina's equivalent of Route 66 running from Ushaia in Tierre del feugo to Barlioche in the North. The one small diffrence from Route 66, no tarmack! After 5 hours of spine rearranging potholes we found ourselves in El Chalten, a half mule town which everybody but the tourists have forgotten.

We woke up the next day, Kaz's birthday, to find clear blue skies, somewhat welcome given the plan to hike for 6 hours, even more so after our wet "W"... The Fitzroy park has a series of Cerros, similar to those in Torres del Paine, only this time we could see them.

Treating Karen to a luxury birthday lunch of instant pasta a lá stove on the way back we rejoined the bus for another 5 hours of bouncing and coughing all the way to El Calafate. The journey was only interupted by a stop in the middle of nowhere at a cafe, though we never worked out if this was to feed us or the tame Guacano that chased the tourists for their snacks.

Kaz & Stu