The Brady Bunch Episode

You know, the one where the happy Bradys go camping in the Grand Canyon and Cindy and Bobby get lost chasing a native American.....Well it was sort of like that except we didn´t get lost and it wasn´t the Grand Canyon...

Cañon del Colca is deeper than the Grand Canyon at 3191m at its deepest point and only just misses out on being the deepest canyon in the world by a shaving of 163m. This goes to neighbouring Cañon del Cotahuasi. Nearby as the condor flies but way too far by rickety arse bus on unmade switch back roads for most gringos, including us. The canyns are also famous for the number of condors enjoying the warm thermals for gliding about.

In preparation for our knee jarring decent into the canyon we made an overnight pitstop at Chivay where we heard there were some seriously hot natural pools to ease away the muscular tension of any weary gringo and boil an egg while we were at it. After a dusty 4km walk out of town the baths were fantastic and surprisingly hot given how large they were. Managed to have it to ourselves for half an hour before the busload of english tourists arrived exclaiming loudly how much they loved a hot bath. Feeling revived, we were ready to tackle the Cañon del Colca. Unfortunately by the end of the 3 hour death bus to Cabanaconde we were ready to turn around and head back to the thermal baths. Never mind, a little town at the base of the Cañon, nicknamed the Oasis was really that. The locals have capitalised on the palm trees and green grass at the base and built a few natural swimming pools. Not hot this time but after a sweaty, dusty but stunning 3 1/2 hour descent with the pools below in constant view they were a welcome treat.

Half way down we realised the "2" hour time estimation was a bit unrealistic and therefore the "4" hour return trip could turn into an epic. Luckily, local mule drivers also realised that some grockels had bitten off more than they could chew, and had some mules on standby to whisk them back up to civilization for a modest fee. Initially, feeling a bit sheepish about not hiking out we soon got over the guilt as we whizzed past red, sweaty grockels making the ascent by foot looking utterly buggered and rather whistfully at our four legged amigos.
Back in Arequipa, 7 hours of back busting bus trip later for the night before an 11 hour trip to Cusco. Ibuprofen anyone?

Got a bit carried away reminiscing about the good old Brady Bunch Days and left out a couple of days in Arequipa. The spaniards really knew how to build a beautiful plaza. Visited the Museo Santuarios Andinos, the deep freeze home of the little ice princess, Juanita. This 12 year old Inca lass made the pilgrimage to the top of Ampato mountain, 6288m in sandals, 500 years ago putting our hiking efforts to shame. She was clubbed over the head and buried on top of the mountain as a sacrifice to the mountain (viewed as gods by the Incas). In 1995 a nearby volcano errupted clearing the top of Ampato of ice and allowing an american mountaineer to stumble across her perfectly preserved remains. An eerie sight. Juanita is one of around 20 similar sacrifices that have been discovered in the Andes. Some of these sacrifices being only 3 or 4 years old when they died. Civilized lot those Incas!

Kaz and Stu ;-)

Shout out of the week: Congratulations to new Mum and Dad, Kylee & Greg on the birth of their grape, Maxwell!!!

Bargain of the week: $20Aus for a lift or 5 hours climbing 1km straight up, eating dust. We made a good choice ;-)))


Simple invention of the week: barbed wire fence peruvian style.

Arse of the week: Guy in Arequipa who burned our photos to CD and lost the set - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Have since recovered them - yay!!

Meal of the week: Argentinian Parillas accompanied by Argentinian wine, nostalgic already ;-)

Sight of the week: lots of rocks on rocks outside Chivay